If you have the time to explore beyond Tbilisi, heading north into the Caucasus Mountains is one of the most rewarding experiences you can have in Georgia. Stepantsminda—often still called Kazbegi—is a small mountain town surrounded by dramatic peaks, rushing rivers, and quiet villages where daily life moves at a slower pace. It feels like stepping into another world the moment you leave the capital.
I spent a few days in this region after a couple of false starts due to winter road closures, and when I finally made it there in early summer, the landscape was nothing short of breathtaking. If you’re planning your first trip, here are some things worth knowing before you go.
1. A Day Trip Is Possible, But Staying Overnight Is Far Better
Technically, you can visit Stepantsminda in a single day from Tbilisi. The journey takes roughly three hours each way, so you could catch an early marshrutka, wander for a bit, and return the same evening. But doing so means spending most of your time in transit.
Staying at least one night gives you time to enjoy the mountains, try some local activities, and soak in the changing views throughout the day. Stepantsminda offers plenty to do, including hiking to Gergeti Trinity Church, visiting waterfalls, rafting, enjoying mineral springs, horseback riding, and more. An overnight visit lets you enjoy the slower rhythm of mountain life without rushing.
2. Breakfast at Rooms Hotel Lives Up to the Hype
If you’re in town before late morning, treat yourself to the breakfast buffet at Rooms Hotel. It’s not cheap, but the spread is impressive—fresh pastries, cured meats, fruit, eggs cooked to order, and endless coffee and juice. Even if you aren’t staying there, you can visit for breakfast, and it’s an unforgettable way to start the day with mountain views all around.
3. You Don’t Need to Stay at Rooms to Enjoy Its Best Features
Rooms Hotel is easily the most upscale accommodation in Stepantsminda, but its nightly rates are steep. The good news is you can still enjoy the restaurant, the terrace, and the views even if you stay somewhere more affordable.
Local guesthouses offer simple but comfortable rooms for a fraction of the price, and many are just a short walk away from the hotel. Choosing a smaller inn helps support local families, and you still get the perks of visiting Rooms whenever you like.
4. The Road to Stepantsminda Is Beautiful—And Winding
The route to Stepantsminda follows the Georgian Military Highway, a dramatic road that snakes through the mountains. It’s stunning, but prone to sharp turns and steep climbs. If you’re prone to motion sickness, take precautions before you set off.
Traffic delays are common, whether from roadwork, weather conditions, or the occasional herd of sheep. It’s all part of the adventure, but be prepared for a slow and curvy ride.
5. Expect Limited English in the Village
Many locals you encounter—especially outside the main hotels—won’t speak English. A translation app will make your life much easier, and photos can help too when you need something specific. Simple gestures and patience go a long way, and people are generally warm and helpful.
6. Evenings Get Chilly
Stepantsminda sits high in the mountains, and temperatures can drop quickly after sunset, even in summer. Bring a warm layer so you’re not caught off guard during nighttime strolls or dinners outdoors.
7. Don’t Miss Gergeti Trinity Church
Gergeti Trinity Church is the crown jewel of Stepantsminda—a small 14th-century church perched high above the village at the foot of Mount Kazbek. The building itself is modest, but the location is extraordinary.
To reach the church, you can either hire a taxi for a short but rough drive or hike up the mountain, which takes about two hours. The trail is steep but manageable for most visitors and offers beautiful views as you climb.
If you plan to enter the church, dress respectfully. Women are expected to cover their heads and wear a skirt or apron, which are usually available on-site.
8. There Are Great Stops Along the Way From Tbilisi
If you’re driving or hiring a private car, you’ll have the chance to explore some incredible places en route. Consider visiting:
Mtskheta, one of Georgia’s oldest towns
The blue waters of the Zhinvali Reservoir
Gudauri, a popular ski town
Ananuri Castle, a medieval fortress overlooking the water
The Soviet-Georgian Friendship Monument, famous for its colorful mosaics
Darial Gorge, an ancient mountain pass steeped in history
Each stop adds character to the journey and makes the trip feel even more special.
Stepantsminda left a lasting impression on me. The mountains rise so suddenly and powerfully that it’s hard to believe they’re real. If you’re traveling through Georgia and can spare the time, seeing this region firsthand is absolutely worth it.
